Not Found

Somewhere along the line, though, I lost much of my desire to pick southern Italian restaurants for dates or other nights out. I think this must have been shortly after I moved out on my own and it sank in that, instead of spending $15 at a restaurant, I could buy a pound of pasta at the Harris Teeter for $1. And it’s not like I don’t appreciate good chicken parmigiana, but I find it really difficult to drop $20 on anything that I could pretty easily make myself at home for half as much.

This provides a lot of the explanation for why I hadn’t been to Mercato, one of Charleston’s most visually appealing restaurants, since it opened in 2006. Even from the outside, the space looks very impressive. The large windows that nearly make up the entirety of the restaurant’s front wall showcase the dark luxurious dining room, a site that’s especially striking at night. Still, regardless of the aesthetics, the restaurant is what it is, and I was nervous because you can only dress standard Italian fare up so much.

Despite Mercato‘s expensive appearance, I think most diners will be pleasantly surprised to learn that its menu prices are pretty reasonable. Sure, you could find Italian food for a little less money elsewhere in town, but not by much, and certainly not in as romantic a setting with quality live jazz. Appetizers at Mercato (with the exception of the Antipasti Platter) fall between $6-10, pizzas (like the Spicy Sausage with caramelized onions, tomato, and fontina cheese – $12) and pastas can be had from $10 to $17, and entrees range from $16 all the way to $28.

Although we were tempted by the Crispy Fried Calamari ($10) that every table in the restaurant seemed to be ordering, we decided to start a little lighter with Beef Carpaccio ($10). The thinly sliced pieces of raw Wagyu were topped with roasted red peppers, arugula, and a light lemon-garlic aioli and served with crostini. If you’re hesitant about the prospect of eating raw beef, I urge you to give Mercato‘s carpaccio a try. The meat tasted incredibly fresh and was well complimented by the flavors of the pepper and the aioli, neither of which overwhelmed the delicate flavor of the meat. I would suggest, however, avoiding eating the crostini with your Wagyu, because the meat tended to get lost amidst the thick, crunchy bread.

Next, we chose the classic Caprese Salad ($8), a wonderfully simple dish that is, in my mind, Italy’s second greatest contribution to the world, right after Da Vinci. It’s difficult to mess up a caprese salad (if you give me fresh mozzarella, tomatoes, and basil in any form, I’m almost certain to be happy) and Mercato‘s version did nothing to disappoint. The only way the dish could have been improved was if tomatoes were a little better quality, but it’s still pretty early in the year, so I don’t think you can blame them for that.

For my entree, I opted for the Veal Marsala ($19), which was unquestionably the best dish of the night. Lightly breaded and sautéed with Porcini mushrooms, onions, and marsala wine, one bite of my veal was enough to make my partner jealous. The meat was perfectly tender, and the mildly sweet sauce was delicious. I was a little disappointed to learn that Mercato doesn’t make their own spaghetti in house (although I was told that they do make some pasta on-site), but I can’t complain because it tasted fine to me.

My partner settled on the Spaghetti Cabonara ($14), which struggled to match-up with the marsala. The dish was serviceable, but not particularly impressive in any way. The pancetta was tasty, but we wished there was more of it, and we both were left wishing that she had gone with her plan-B, the Wild Mushroom Risotto ($15) with mascarpone and white truffle oil.

For dessert, we considered the Tiramisu, before deciding on the Cioccolata e Vaniglia ($8), a flourless chocolate cake with a molten nutella center, topped with housemade gelato. Our opinions on the result were split. While I, as a confessed chocolate addict, was enjoyed how rich the cake was, my partner thought it was a bit much. The rich, creamy gelato was excellent, and the nutella was an interesting deviation from standard molten chocolate filled cakes.

There are two other things that I have to mention before I close this review (which City Paper’s Robert Moss also pointed out after his recent trip). First, the olive oil which accompanies your complimentary bread is out of this world. It’s got an outstanding, light fruity flavor that will make it very difficult not to fill up on bread. The good news about filling up on bread, however, is that you’ll have it in your stomach to soak up the vodka in your Mercato Martini, a combination of homemade limoncello and Firefly Sweet Tea vodka. I’m more of a rum guy, but my partner absolutely loved it.

In whole, I was pleasantly surprised with Mercato. The prices were better than I expected, the atmosphere was great for a couple, and for the most part, we really enjoyed the food. I still don’t see myself dropping this kind of money on southern Italian food very frequently, but my preconceptions about Mercato have been disproved. If you’re looking for this style of food in a classy, upscale atmosphere you should definitely consider heading down to the Market.

No related posts.

I came away from my only previous experience at Poogan’s Porch a little baffled by its popularity. The food wasn’t bad, but I felt like there were any number of other establishments offering a better product for equal or less money. The fact that Poogan’s is a regular stop on the local ghost tours doesn’t do anything to deter the perception that it’s just another tourist trap like Hyman’s and Jestine’s (although, I’ll admit that I have been thinking of giving the latter a second chance as well).

One possible reason to return: an obscenely good deal that’s almost impossible to resist. Such is currently the case at Poogan’s, where they are currently featuring a rollback to 1978 menu prices from Sunday-Thursday every week. Since that may be an abstract concept to some of us who were still a good eight years away from being born, it translates to entree prices in the $7-$10 range. Sounds good with economy the way it is, huh?

So, last week I decided to take advantage of the deal and see if things were different the second time around.

To start our meal, we opted for two Charleston favorites–she-crab soup ($3) and fried green tomatoes ($3). While Poogan’s F.G.T. certainly aren’t Earth-shatteringly unique, they are definitely pretty damn good. What makes this particular version so great is batter. Poogan’s F.G.T. are fried to absolute perfection–golden brown, crisp, and not too greasy. I’ve ordered this Southern staple at about a million restaurants in my lifetime, but Poogan’s variety is easily among my all-time favorites. The Cajun remoulade that accompanies the tomatoes was wonderful, but I enjoy them just as much by themselves.

The she-crab soup, while above average, is a bit heavy for my taste. The right flavors were all there, but after a few spoonfuls I could actually feel my BMI rising. I wish more local restaurants would make an attempt at poaching Chef Frank McMahon‘s she-crab recipe over at Hank’s. McMahon’s version has the perfect consistency and just the right amount of sherry.

For my entree, I opted for the Pecan-crusted Fried Flounder ($9). Every halfway-decent restaurant excels at something, and after my first bite of flounder it became obvious that Poogan’s expertise is its staff’s unbelievable knack for frying things. The crust was crisp and crunchy without being too heavy. The subtle nutty flavor of the pecans also added a really nice base note. It was just really pleasant to bite into. Unfortunately, the second bite wasn’t quite as pleasant.

One of the reasons I was drawn to the dish was the mention of the honey-Dijon glaze. Now, let it be known that I’m a full blown mustard addict. At any one time, I have at least three different varieties in my refrigerator (most importantly a bottle of Bertman’s Ballpark Mustard–a Cleveland tradition–which I import from Ohio). Suffice it to say, I was expecting good things. When I excitedly dipped my next bite of flounder into the sauce and popped it into my mouth, however, I got a strange feeling that I’ve only previously had while eating sushi. It was that sinus clearing burning sensation that happens when you unexpectedly catch a chunk of wasabi with your chopsticks. Seriously, the sauce was just a little absurd. The Dijon completely overpowered the taste of the fish, crust, and may have possibly permanently melted a few of my taste buds. It wasn’t all bad though. After a few bites I managed to get a grip on the maximum amount of sauce I could use without smothering the other flavors. Once I got to this point and could taste a bit of the sweetness of the honey, it was smooth sailing.

My partner opted for the Pan Fried Porkchop ($8). Topped with sun-dried tomatoes and a country ham gravy, the porkchop was tender, juicy, and free of burning sensations. I wish the flavor of the sun-dried tomatoes would have come through a little more clearly, but, still, the gravy was tasty and it was a successful dish.

Overall, while Poogan’s Porch isn’t likely to blow anyone away, it’s certainly more serviceable than I remembered. If you have an opportunity to make it out before the current promotion is done, I would definitely recommend taking advantage of the opportunity. Apart from the items we ordered, there were several other intriguing (and incredibly priced) options. Shrimp & Grits, steak, and pork tenderloin could each be had for under $10. You can’t beat that. After the current promotion is over and prices return to normal, it’s your call as to whether Poogan’s is a worthy investment. If you do go, however, be sure to tip well, my roommate works there and we can always use the beer money.

No related posts.

I’m happy to report, however, that I’On’s newest restaurant, Jacob’s Kitchen, is much more inviting than I would have ever expected (and no, they didn’t even attempt to turn my girlfriend into a cyborg). The restaurant is a part of the brand spanking new Inn at I’On, which features seven rooms with features like, “fireplaces, hi-def televisions, and jet soaking tubs…wireless Internet access, a full complimentary membership to the I’On Club,…and breakfast for two.” The girlfriend and I were thoroughly impressed; the rooms are certainly much nicer than most places we’ve stayed.

I know you didn’t come here for my thoughts on the rooms, so let’s get down to business. Jacob’s Kitchen is helmed by Executive Chef Jonathan Languell, whose name you may recognize from his days at Sal Parco’s popular Boulevard Diner. Languell describes the cuisine as “New South” which, not surprisingly, is all about modern interpretations of classic Southern dishes and flavors. The comfortable 60-seat dining room reminds me quite a bit of those found at Hominy Grill and Fat Hen with a slightly more modernized faux-country home feel. It also features several very cool paintings by local artist Nancy Valelly.

Starters:

The evening began with a really nice take on one of my favorite Southern side dishes, the hushpuppy. Jacob’s Kitchen‘s version ($7) had the perfect, light interior texture, and were boosted in flavor by tiny pieces of shrimp and corn.

The Peach Spiked Crabcakes ($9) were the highlight of both my and my girlfriend’s evening. They were, as all crabcakes should be, filled almost entirely with crab meat. There is nothing more frustrating than excitedly ordering a crabcake, only to bite into it and come away with mostly breading. The subtle peach flavor provided a unique accent to a dish that I imagine will be one of their most popular appetizers, if the crowd’s reaction was any indication.

The BBQ Duck Spring Roll ($6.50), wasn’t bad, but it didn’t particularly impress me. In general, I wish people would just give up on BBQ duck. It may sound great in theory, but the flavor of the bird always seems to get lost in the mix.

Other intriguing starter items featured on the menu but not at the tasting include a drool-inducing Fried Green Tomato Tower with a cajun crawfish corn salad and roasted red pepper coulis ($7) and Southern Fried Quail over cheddar grit cakes, maple pecan brown butter, and caramelized Granny Smith apples ($10).

Entrees:

One of Jacob’s Kitchen‘s most appealing features is the very reasonable pricing of their entrees. Ranging from an $11-$19 with most items settling in around $15, you’d be hard pressed to find most of these items for less than $20-25 downtown.

Braised in a double chocolate stout and served on a piece of cornbread and grilled asparagus spear, the Short Ribs ($15) were another high point. I’m a sucker for braised short ribs in general, but for a man who loves dark beer, this was a match made in heaven. The aroma of this dish was enough to make my mouth water.

The sampling included two dishes featuring everyone’s favorite pricey ground chuck replacement, Kobe beef–Jacob’s Kobe Beef Meatloaf ($13.50) and a Kobe Beef Burger ($11). The meatloaf was served as a “shooter” in a little glass with red eye gravy. I’ve never been a meatloaf lover, but I did enjoy Chef Languell’s version. The meat was juicy and full of flavor, pretty much everything you want from your meatloaf. Served in slider form and topped with creamy pimento cheese, the burger was tasty, if not a bit too well-done. I have to say, however, I feel the same way about these dishes that I do about BBQ duck. I think using Kobe in these types of dishes may be a bit of overkill. Sure, it looks fantastic on the menu, but it’s the culinary equivalent of going to the grocery store in a Rolls Royce. Meatloaf and hamburgers can be done perfectly well (and significantly cheaper) with regular fresh ground beef.

The Carolina Gold BBQ Pork Ribs ($15) were wonderfully tender and flavorful. The only downside was that I had such trouble resisting their call that I very nearly burned my mouth biting into one as soon as it was in front of me. When ordered off the menu they will be served “over a warm potato salad and southern corn cole slaw.” Mmmm.

Dishes I’m looking forward to trying in the future include the Roasted Stuffed Pork Tenderloin filled with pear and goat cheese and rolled in honey panko herb crumbs ($15.50) and Lowcountry Paella with mussels, shrimp, scallops, and fish for a crazy $15.50 price tag.

–

Overall, I think Jacob’s Kitchen (set to open February 17th) is going to do very well. The product is high quality, the prices are very reasonable, and the menu is simultaneously both familiar and fresh. It’s a little bit off the beaten path, but, in my opinion, well worth the trip.

Special thanks to Lawson Roberts for the invitation.

No related posts.

Located on East Bay, in the heart of fine dining country, SNOB features an open kitchen which allows diners to watch Chef Frank Lee and his staff work their magic. The dining room is large and open, but unfortunately can be exceptionally noisy once it fills up. I wouldn’t recommend SNOB for an intimate romantic evening, but the food is always priority number one for my girlfriend and I, so we didn’t mind too much.

The menu’s prices are pretty standard for a restaurant of this type, with entrees ranging from $23-$34. The cuisine is largely modern-American with an emphasis on local ingredients and specialties. They offer Charleston standards like shrimp and grits ($16.50) and crab cakes ($23.50), along with more exciting choices including sesame crusted tuna medallions ($15) and grilled barbecue tuna with a mustard barbecue sauce and fried oysters ($25). They also offer interesting daily specials in each menu category.

We decided to open our meal by sharing a bowl of oyster stew ($8.75). Filled with big, tender oysters, yukon gold potatoes, and applewood smoked bacon in a scallop cream broth, this is a fantastic winter stew for a cold day. I’m normally not a huge fan of oysters, but these had a freshness and texture that won me over.

For my entree, I chose one of SNOB’s intriguing specials, something that I had never experienced before. The local rabbit loin ($22) was juicy and full of flavor. For those of you who have never had rabbit, the common response is that it tastes sort of like chicken, but that doesn’t really do it justice. You have to try it for yourself, but I compared the taste to a more gamey blend of chicken and pork loin (not that that is likely all that helpful). Anyhow, it was wonderful. The loin was stuffed with a richly flavored tarragon shallot mousse that complemented the taste and texture of the meat.

The rabbit was delicious, but I was equally enthralled with its accompaniments. The soft, pillowy cheese gnocchi were unreal. They forced me into a full fledged Giada De Laurentiis style, “I’m enjoying this a little too much” face. SNOB’s gnocchi are right on par with Al Di La on my list of best gnocchi ever. Amongst the gnocchi were local grape tomatoes which burst and filled your mouth with flavor the moment you bit into them, and beech mushrooms (a first for me as well) which have a nice, subtle nutty flavor.

My partner opted for the sauteed duck breast ($25). The dish included skinless breast meat, leg confit, butternut squash casserole, asparagus, and a honey thyme reduction. My partner favored the breast, but the leg was what really impressed me. Slowly cooked in its own fat, the tender confit’s flavor was rich and robust. The thin, crisp skin of the duck literally melted in our mouths, producing another “oh my god” moment for each of us. The reduction was also exquisitely prepared. So much so that my partner asked our server to make sure that he got every drop of it in her to-go box (I guess he was feeling generous, because he ended up giving her an entire little cup of it to take home). We weren’t, however, particularly fond of the casserole. The flavors were fine, but the texture was too mushy, not particularly appetizing.

Overall, SNOB lived up to it’s reputation as one of Charleston’s best restaurants. I frequently get asked variations of the question, “I’ve got a friend/family member coming into town this weekend; where is the one place that they really need to try?” Usually I alternate between FIG and McCrady’s, but Slightly North of Broad will now definitely be a part of the conversation. The service was good–despite the busy atmosphere–and the food was almost flawless. If you haven’t been to SNOB yet, do yourself a favor and see what you’ve been missing.

No related posts.

The Buccaneer is occupying the Faber St. location that has been empty since City Bar shut down a couple years ago. The McCrady’s ownership group, never one to skimp on decor, dished out a whopping $500,000 to fill the massive restaurant with one of the most impressive collections of pirate memorabilia in the country. The restaurant is dedicated to the Carolina coast’s “golden age of piracy.” Don’t be turned off when you hear about the restaurant’s pirate theme, it’s anything but campy.

The cuisine is described as “American bistro-meets Lowcountry,” but these official descriptions never really help much. Basically you’re going to find a lot of typical Charleston items (e.g., She-crab soup, crab cakes, shrimp & grits) and a few unique twists (e.g., fried green tomato fries, shrimp and ham stuffed collards). The prices are reasonable, with entrees ranging from $11 up to $18. The restaurant’s kitchen will also be open until 1 a.m. on the weekends, serving a late night menu with a variety of appetizers and sandwiches from the lunch menu.

The media lunch gave me a chance to sample a variety of things, so I won’t get into everything, but here were the highlights. As I expected, the fried green tomato fries were fantastic. I was afraid the batter would get soggy, but they maintained their crispness and were complimented nicely by the tangy remoulade. The crab dip was rich and creamy with a nice full crab flavor.

For my entree, I chose the fried green tomato and crab blt. It was stuffed full of big pieces of lump crab meat, thick slices of tomato, and crisp bacon on a crunchy baguette style roll. Other people at my table opted for the Queen Anne’s crabcake and chicken orecchiette corfu. While the chicken didn’t particularly stand out to me in taste, it certainly did make an impression with its size. In fact, the portions at The Buccaneer are almost uniformly huge. Compared to most other places around the Market, this place represents a tremendous value. If it isn’t hurt too badly by the just-off-the-beaten-path location, The Buccaneer is going to steal some serious business from the Bubba Gump’s and A.W. Shucks of the the world.

Of the three desserts I sampled, I was most impressed by the warm, delicious pecan pie. Then again, I’m a sucker for pecan pie in general, so I may be biased.

In general, I think The Buccaneer should be a welcome addition to Charleston’s downtown dining scene. The Market really needed a more value oriented alternative to its plethora of fine dining and overpriced fried seafood options. The restaurant is now open, so I encourage you to check it out and let me know what you thought.

(DH’s note: I think I deserve some sort of award for writing that entire post without one pirate pun or use of “booty” or “plunder.”)

No related posts.

I’m not trying to say that I only enjoy fine dining–if I felt that way I would starve to death pretty quickly–but I do try my best to patronize as many of Charleston’s most unique and innovative restaurants as possible.

With that in mind, I’m a little disappointed in myself. How could any self-respecting semi-food snob wait 10 months to visit his city’s only “holistic soul food” cafe? Blame it on ignorance or whatever you’d like, but I corrected my mistake last Thursday, when I made my way over to Reid Street for dinner at Alluette’s Cafe.

From the outside, Alluette’s Cafe isn’t much to look at. It’s in a pretty nondescript strip mall on the border of the sketchy side of town. The inside continues the low key theme. Alluette’s, named for its proprietor Alluette Jones, only has about a half dozen tables, none of which adhere to any recognizable pattern. The walls are covered in paintings by local Gullah artists and the book shelves are filled with titles promising “natural cures.”

The menu, which makes Alluette’s commitment to fresh, local, and organic ingredients abundantly clear, is fairly small, but complemented by a sizable list of daily specials. It’s important to choose something you’re pretty sure you’ll like, however, because the prices at Alluette’s are way higher than you would suspect in that location.

We chose to start with a cup of the fish stew ($7 for what appeared to be about 6 oz.). Warm and hearty with loads of delicious vegetables and wild-caught salmon, it would be the perfect cure for a cold winter night. The tomato basil-based stew wonderfully combines flavors from the farm and the ocean.

From there, we moved on to entrees. Relying on the recommendations of just about everyone who has ever been to Alluette’s Cafe, I went with the fried local shrimp ($19). I’ve always thought that all fried shrimp were roughly the same, but boy was I wrong.

Alluette’s fried shrimp have a light, crispy exterior that doesn’t drown out the taste of the shrimp. They are seasoned with a healthy dose of dill and served with a spicy cayenne mayonnaise. I have to agree with Robert Moss of the City Paper’s assertion that Alluette’s is dishing out the best fried shrimp in the city.

My partner opted for the chicken salad ($15). Served over a bed of some the freshest, tastiest local veggies I’ve tasted in quite a while, this dish would be an absolutely ideal light meal if the price tag wasn’t so absurd. Fifteen dollars for a single, albeit delicious, scoop of chicken salad and some greens just isn’t a reasonable purchase for anyone living on a budget.

For dessert, we were tempted by Alluette’s giant cookies ($3) but ended up selecting the bread pudding ($6). The pudding was full of raisins and nice, crunchy apples. The flavors were all right, but I found it to be a little on the dry side.

Another interesting item to note is Alluette’s sweet tea, which is sweetened with fruit juice instead of sugar. On the day we went, they were serving a pineapple tea which I really enjoyed. It’s a particularly attractive option for those of us who get turned off by the amount of sugar many restaurants around these parts put in their tea.

Overall, the food at Alluette’s was excellent, but I don’t know how highly I can recommend it, given the cost. I can’t really blame Alluette for that, though. It’s got to be difficult enough to turn a profit in a restaurant that small, but I imagine it gets significantly harder when you commit to the quality of ingredients she does.

So, if you’ve got money to burn, by all means move Alluette’s toward the top of your “must-try” list. However, if you’re like me and $30 dinners are a substantial investment, you might be better off heading down to your neighborhood vegetable stand and trying to recreate some of Alluette’s dishes yourself.

No related posts.

While anyone who has spent more than a few days in Charleston could point you to many restaurants in this town with better seafood than Hyman’s, until recently, they may have struggled to identify establishments that represent a step up from Jestine’s, within that same genre of cuisine.

Since opening in December 2007, Virginia’s on King, the latest offering from Holy City Hospitality (Coast Bar & Grill, 39 Rue de Jean), has solidified itself, alongside Hominy Grill, as one of Charleston’s leaders in traditional Southern food.

Even before starting our meal, my partner and I were impressed with Virginia’s dining room. The dark panel and worn brick walls give the space an air of sophistication that I imagine must be reminiscent of the dinner parties thrown by the restaurant’s namesake, Virginia Bennett.

For our appetizers, we opted for one dish we can’t get enough of, and another that we had never tried before. The traditional tomato pie ($7) was wonderful, with balsamic vinegar adding a tangy twist to this late summer-early fall classic. The pan-fried chicken livers ($6) were a first for both of us, and we enjoyed them more than we expected to. The soft, almost chewy texture may not be for everyone, but combined with caramelized onions and bacon, the flavor more than made up for it.

On the other hand, we found the she-crab soup ($4 cup / $8 bowl), which is supposed to be one of Virginia’s specialties, to be almost completely inedible. The flavor wasn’t awful, but I really felt like I was eating a bowl of straight heavy cream and sherry with little bits of crab meat. I know that she-crab is never described as a light soup, but I couldn’t manage to eat more than a few bites of Virginia’s version.

After struggling to choose our entrees (almost all of Virginia’s offerings looked enticing), I settled on the hazelnut marinated venison ($19). Cooked perfectly medium-rare and served on top of a tremendous earthy and flavorful mushroom gravy, the meat was so juicy and tender that I felt it just might melt in my mouth. My partner went for the aged ribeye ($24), which came topped with homemade pimento cheese. I was skeptical about how well this would work, given pimento cheese’s tendency to overpower any other flavor it encounters, but it ended up being the highlight of the evening. The bold tastes of both components of the dish played equal roles with the spice of the peppers serving as an unusual but delicious compliment to the steak.

As for side dishes, I was surprisingly fond of the creamed corn and the corn bread with broccoli, but was underwhelmed by the baked macaroni and cheese, which came out of the kitchen lukewarm. It’s worth noting, however, that my partner said it was better when she reheated it so the cheese was warm and gooey the next day.

For dessert, we chose the pecan pie ($6). Drizzled with dark chocolate sauce and served with vanilla ice cream, this warm, decadent pie was a perfect way to end the evening.

All-in-all, our meal at Virginia’s on King was definitely a success. Besides my disappointment with the soup, my only other complaint would be that the food at Virginia’s was simply too rich for me to dine there on a regular basis. Still, the quality of the product is more than enough to justify the fact that you’re likely to leave the restaurant discussing your plans to eat nothing but salads for the next week. So, next time you’re missing home cooked meals and are distressed at the thought of microwaving another box of Easy Mac for dinner, consider heading to Virginia’s; it’s only a block from campus, but can transport you to wherever home is.

No related posts.

Jealous, Charleston?

I just did a McCrady’s review and this dinner had so many courses that I can’t even begin to write a full review. A couple quick comments though:

Top 5 dishes of the night (in no particular order):

Hamachi Sashimi + Crispy Sweetbreads + Smoked Mayonnaise – The hamachi was some of the best sashimi I’ve ever tasted. You wouldn’t expect it with the chefs that were cooking and the other items on the menu, but the smoked mayonnaise was one of the stars of the evening. If McCrady’s would put the smoked mayo from last night, use the pork jowl from the 2nd course as the bacon, and use some of their amazing heirloom tomatoes, they could make the world’s single greatest BLT. I would pay $15 for it, easy.

Foie Gras Rocks + Fig + Pancakes + Maple – My friend Sarah’s favorite dish of the night. The foie gras had been dipped in liquid nitrogen to freeze it and then crumbled on the plate. It absolutely melted in your mouth with that smooth, silky texture that makes foie gras so awesome. The tiny pancakes were topped with a wonderfully light foam/mousse that was packed with flavor but didn’t weigh you down like syrup. Putting a little of the maple on the foie gras was a unique, but beautiful experience.

Country Fried Grouper Steak + Potatoes – The grouper was just a great piece of fish with a light batter surrounding it and topped with a little sausage gravy. The potatoes were pureed and encased in a very thin crispy exterior. I’m not sure whether they were seared or very lightly fried, but the end result was what tasted like the worlds greatest home fries. I felt like this is what they would serve at the Cracker Barrell if they just opened up a new franchise…in Heaven.

McLamb Rib + Butternut + Peanuts – I love lamb and this was some of the best I’ve had. Right on par with how good it was the last time I ate at McCrady’s. The combination of the boiled peanuts with the lamb meat and butternut puree was out of this world.

Canned Soup – Interestingly enough, this actually did come served in a can (fully adorned with Trail Blais logo and nutritional facts). It was a smooth green tomato gazpacho with horseradish. Very refreshing. I wish more Southern restaurants would carry something like this.

Other interesting elements of the meal -

• The Oyster + Pearls remix was served with a tasty melon flavored “Dippin Dots” style ice cream.
• The cole slaw sorbet that was served with crab met mixed reviews. It definitely tasted like cole slaw, but I don’t think most people knew how to feel about that (although, I buy the 4.5 lbs econo-size tub of cole slaw from Sam’s Club every few weeks so it tasted good to me).
• The sweet tea ice cream on the dessert was top notch, why can’t I buy this at the Harris Teeter?! Southerners should have been making this into milkshakes and putting it on top of pies for generations by now!

Other notes from the evening -

• Got to meet Chef Blais and shake his hand which was very cool. My friends made fun of me for looking like a giddy middle school girl (that’s about as big a celebrity as I’ve met). He’s a very down to earth, very funny guy. He’s a little goofy, but he was a great host for the dinner. He came out every other course and described the reasoning and cooking process behind each dish.
• Spoke briefly to Chef Brock, he said they are planning to continue doing these guest chef dinners, although he didn’t mention any specifics. Seems like a win-win situation though; Charleston gets to try innovative new dishes by great chefs and, for the people in the kitchen, as Brock said, “It’s an excuse to bring my friends in to town and hang out.
• The Long Room at McCrady’s is a very cool place even with 125 people in it. Now I can tell people that I ate in the same room that George Washington did.
• I think we were the only college students there. One waiter apparently thought we worked for the Charlotte Observer instead of the George Street Observer. We should have played along. Probably could have got some nice perks.

All-in-all, it was a great meal, top three in my life from a pure food perspective (I don’t see anything ever beating my last dinner there). For overall experience, though, I’d have to put it at number one. If you have the opportunity to check out one of the next guest chef dinners, I’d definitely check it out. Keep on the lookout for pictures from this event by Paul Cheney over at LetsTalkCharleston.com and on the GSO website.

p.s. If you’ve got any other questions or info you want about the evening, leave me a comment and I’ll gladly answer.

p.p.s. I start my new internship at Leapfrog PR Co. tomorrow. Wish me luck!

No related posts.

As I had known for a while, but hadn’t been able to divulge, they’ve managed to lure Food Network star and Iron Chef Bobby Flay to next year’s Festival. He’ll cook at a charity luncheon with some of the other chefs from his restaurants and also give a demonstration on how to create gourmet burgers. That was the major announcement, but I’m sure you all are equally interested to hear about the food.

My personal favorite dish was offered by chef Craig Deihl of Cypress. It was his rendition of a BLT that featured grape tomatoes, shrimp, and a lamb bacon mayonnaise on a crisp crostini. Other top offerings included shrimp and grits served with a corn fritter topped with sweet tomato jam (Locklear’s) and barbecued beef and pulled pork (care of Blackjack Barbecue/Food for the Southern Soul).

Really the only thing that didn’t work for me was Caviar & Bananas signature dish of, guess what, caviar on a banana chip. The chip just tasted stale and overpowered any flavor the caviar had.

The desserts were great too. There were grand marnier truffles, mango and passion fruit mousse cups, brownies, and a wonderful chocolate mousse filled chocolate ball on a stick from Cypress’s pastry chef M. Kelly Wilson.

If you’re a fan of the Charleston culinary scene there were all kinds of names you would recognize in attendance including Brett McKee of Oak Steakhouse, Bob Waggoner and Mickey Bakst of Charleston Grill, and Mike Lata of FIG.

It was a great event and I think I gave myself a cavity sampling all of the sweets. Now excuse me while I go brush my teeth ten times in a row.

No related posts.

McCrady’s has received some big time accolades in the past few months, most notably Chef Sean Brock’s “Rising Star Chef” James Beard Award nomination and their appearance near the top of Opinionated About Dining’s list of the Best Restaurants in North America and Europe, both of which I’ve previously discussed here. It is always a major name in the local debates about the best restaurants in the city and the structure itself is a landmark. It was built in 1788 and once hosted a dinner party for George Washington. I had never had the opportunity to dine at McCrady’s before (I’m a college student living on a budget after all), but I’ve always wanted to and was hoping to get the opportunity to do so while they still remembered me from Table Maestro. So, when I learned my mother was coming into town for a weekend I used my best PR skills to pitch her how great an idea having one really nice dinner on her trip would be. Needless to say, my pitch worked and I was granted an opportunity to embark on a three hour, nine-course journey that was unlike any other meal I have ever experienced.

When we arrived at the restaurant and seated, the perfect ambiance of the dining room immediately struck me. Everything from the lighting to the wonderful art on the walls screams of class and sophistication. Our waiter was exceptionally knowledgeable, answering any and all of our questions without more than a moment’s thought. The menu, while not particularly extensive, offers options to please any taste, and the nightly specials display the chef’s creativity (a word that you will find yourself using quite frequently after a dinner at McCrady’s). The menu is broken down into first, second, and main courses and the cuisine is described by the restaurant as “modern American with unique style and presentation,” a wording that really doesn’t give you much of an idea about what to expect. The food at McCrady’s is the result of a unique melding of Chef Brock’s frequently noted interest in molecular gastronomy and his commitment to using the very best and most local ingredients, which frequently come from the restaurant’s own farm on Wadamalaw Island (check out Chef Brock’s blog for pictures and more information).

After placing our orders, we were treated to two tasting dishes selected by the chef. First, an amuse bouche of chilled corn soup with a pickled chanterelle and grape tomato, an excellent, light start to the meal that would follow. Next, we were brought the chef’s rendition of chips and salsa, an item which I’m assuming was drawn from the current tasting menu which focuses on chips and salsa as its theme. This was truly an innovative dish which I couldn’t fully wrap my head around, let alone accurately describe, but in short it was two powders which distinctly tasted like and played the part of tortilla chips and a clear gel that they somehow managed to make taste like a full salsa.

For my first ordered course of the night, I selected the nightly special, sashimi bluefin tuna toro with a cucumber foam and soy glaze ($18). Toro comes from the fatty underbelly of the fish and is the most sought after (and expensive) part of the tuna. The texture of the toro was tender to a degree that you must experience to believe, it basically melts in your mouth. The taste of the tuna was complimented masterfully by the subtle cucumber foam and the soy glaze that packed quite a bit of flavor without overwhelming the fish.

Following our first course, we were pleased to be given another round of chef selected tasting dishes. The first of which was a prawn served with local corn, tomato, and bacon. The prawn was perfectly cooked and the combination of it alongside the corn and bacon made for one of the highlights of my evening. The final tasting course we received that evening was my mother’s favorite dish of the night, a thin slice of house cured meat, which I believe was a lonzino, over potato wrapped with truffle. The meat had a nice, delicate texture with just the right amount of saltiness.

My second ordered course was definitely the simplest, yet possibly best dish I tasted all evening: a salad of locally grown heirloom tomatoes and arugula over housemade ricotta, pine nuts, and raspberry vinegar ($12). I’m admittedly a little obsessed with tomatoes; I find it difficult to resist them when they are green and fried, and impossible to resist them they are paired with fresh mozzarella. This dish featured some of the very best tomato I have ever ingested. Bright, delicious flavor that gave the impression that this particular tomato had been hand picked by a farmer and handed to the chef 10 minutes earlier. The housemade ricotta was wonderfully creamy without any overpowering richness. These two elements paired with the raspberry vinegar forced my face into the same involuntary look of complete joy that Giada de Laurentiis gets every time she ever tastes something on TV.

Our entrees followed and did not disappoint. My mother opted for the local wreckfish($28),which is a white fish, similar to grouper with a nice meaty texture. My mother really enjoyed it, however, while I thought it was good, it didn’t blow me away like many of the other dishes that evening did, perhaps it was merely a victim of stiff competition. I decided to go with the spice roasted rack of lamb with local eggplant, pine nut puree, and golden raisins ($34). The lamb was cooked to an ideal medium-rare that left it wonderfully moist. The flavor combination of the lamb with the pine nut puree was rich and decadent, continuing the gradual, logical progression that the meal had steadfastly followed from the first amuse bouche.

In what may have seemed like an impossibility around the evenings fourth or fifth course, both my mother and I still had room for dessert. Being a sucker for all things chocolate, I chose one of pastry chef Winburn Carmack’s creations that seemed like it may have been designed specifically for me: crispy chocolate mousse topped with milk sorbet and accompanied by espresso and Irish cream glazes ($9). In case you thought there was any possibility that I would express any other emotion but love for this dish, you can go ahead and clear those thoughts from your head right now. The mousse was out of this world, the milk sorbet was light and refreshing, and, if McCrady’s wasn’t such a classy establishment, I would have been very tempted to lick my plate clean. One other interesting part of our dessert course was the sampling of McCrady’s famous liquid nitrogen strawberries that were brought out smoking and ladled onto our plates. Our server instructed us to eat them immediately and we quickly became the stars of our portion of the dining room. As soon as you bite into these ultra chilled fruits, smoke starts uncontrollably bellowing out of your mouth, which makes you look like you just walked out of Snoop Dogg’s tour bus. As we paid our check, we received one final treat, a piece of melt-in-your-mouth-chocolate covered in shredded coconut, a perfect end to a full on perfect meal.

A couple concluding points I really want to drive home: 1) the service at McCrady’s was far and away the best I have ever experienced in a restaurant. I loved Mickey Bakst and his staff at Charleston Grill, but the attentiveness and sense of pacing of McCrady’s staff is unmatched. If we ever had a need someone was available, but I didn’t once feel like I was rushed or smothered. Our courses were brought out in a smooth succession, with just enough time between them to allow for conversation breaks. General Manager André Guillet really has the restaurant running like a well oiled machine. 2) One of the most impressive aspects of my experience at McCrady’s is how they managed to provide us with so many courses over our three hours in the restaurant, but left us feeling merely full and satisfied rather than overwhelmed or stuffed. The meal started out light and, as I mentioned earlier, progressed smoothly through the final course.
All-in-all, my dinner at McCrady’s was, bar-none, the best meal of my life. While I understand that I received a few more items than the average diner would receive, my absolute favorite dishes of the night were those that I ordered off the menu, which you have access to as well. I want to personally thank Andre, Chef Brock, and wine director Clint Sloan for taking the time to come say “Hello” to me, I cannot recommend your restaurant highly enough. For the college students in my readership: start planting the seeds now, whether it’s for parents’ weekend, your birthday, or graduation, you want to convince your parental units to take you here, above anywhere else, if they can afford it. Hell, if you’ve got the money and a significant other who you really want to impress, start saving your pennies, eat ramen and Easy Mac for a few weeks and take them out for a meal they will always remember. Don’t expect to make it out of McCrady’s for less than $65 a person, but rest assured that you will not regret your purchase.

DH’s Extra Note: In direct contrast to my above advice, I will be investing a large portion of my expendable income for August at McCrady’s on August 31st for the 12-course Richard Blais (of Top Chef fame) dinner as he teams up with Chef Brock for what I’m sure will be a mind-opening culinary experience.

No related posts.