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39 Rue de Jean - Charleston Restaurant Review

David Heiser — Sun, 12 Apr 2009 06:33:08 +0000

39 Rue de Jean has long been near the top of my list of Charleston-area restaurants I’ve been dying to go to, but haven’t yet had the opportunity. It’s frequently mentioned by locals and out-of-towners alike as one of the best restaurants in the city and possibly the best French restaurant in town. In addition, Rue de Jean is a part of the highly-regarded Holy City Hospitality family that also runs Coast (one of my personal favorites) and Virginia’s on King. Going into my meal, I couldn’t have had much higher expectations.

Located, unsurprisingly, at 39 John St., Rue’s menu is largely composed of classic French offerings, but also features a small selection of sushi. Appetizers fall mainly in the $7 to $14 range, entrees start at $18 (Chicken Francaise) and top out at $27 (Filet Roquefort), and sushi will run you around $5 for sashimi or $7 for a roll.

To start our meal, we opted for one traditional French item and one of the seemingly out of place sushi rolls. In retrospect, I wish we would have asked our server to stagger our appetizers’ arrivals. The two-person tables at Rue de Jean are almost comically small, compared to the size of the plates and the amount of other “stuff” we had on ours. Between the bread basket and plates, the water pitcher and glasses, and the two plates for our dishes, approximately 115 percent of our table’s surface area was accounted for.

Right off the bat, the Escargots ($8) was the high point of the meal. Though I’ve heard many people decry the texture of snails, I actually really enjoyed their tender, meaty consistency. They were served in a delicious garlic and parsley butter sauce, which had a nice tangy flavor.

As much as I thought the sushi seemed like an odd addition to the menu, I have to admit that I think it really works. Rue’s Spicy Tuna Roll ($7) was wonderfully fresh. However, I actually thought the roll could have used a bit more heat, as the sweet Asian chilli sauce they used didn’t provide much spice.

For my entree, I couldn’t resist the Braised Rabbit ($24) in a white wine, creme fraiche, and whole grain mustard sauce. While the flavors in the sauce were a nice combination and the meat was fall-off-the-bone tender, I wasn’t blown away like I had expected to be. The flavor of the meat must have been lost a bit in the braising, as it seemed a little bland. The potatoes dauphinoise which accompanied the rabbit, on the other hand, were incredible. The crisp cheesy crust and perfectly cooked potatoes made this one of the best versions of potatoes gratin I’ve had.

My partner opted for one of my absolute favorite French dishes, Coq au Vin ($20). The dish has an outstanding aroma. When the red wine, mushrooms, bacon lardons and pearl onions all mingle together and meet your nostrils, you know you’re in for a treat. Like the rabbit, the chicken was unbelievably tender, literally falling apart at the touch of the fork. While Rue’s wasn’t the best version of this dish I’ve ever tasted, it was still definitely a success.

For desert, we went with the White Chocolate Raspberry Torte ($7), which ended up being one of the best plates of the night. White chocolate and raspberry are two of those flavors which seem to have been created with each other in mind. The torte was smooth and creamy, sweet without being too rich, and just undeniably delicious. This was the only item of the night to produce a “Wow” reaction from both of us.

Overall, while 39 Rue de Jean does meet the high standard Charleston residents have come to expect from Holy City Hospitality’s restaurants and its underhyped executive chef, Jason Murphy, I have to admit that I wasn’t as impressed as all the glowing reviews led me to believe I’d be. The food at Rue was good, but not great; service was fine, but perhaps a bit more casual than I’d like in that setting; and I didn’t really pick up any sort of a romantic vibe, as you would expect to find in a higher-end French restaurant. I would much prefer to dine at Coast or Virginia’s. You could certainly do a whole lot worse in Charleston, but I don’t think I’ll rushing back to Rue de Jean in the near future.

Coco’s Cafe - Mt. Pleasant Restaurant Review

David Heiser — Sat, 31 Jan 2009 19:02:00 +0000

I’m admittedly a little biased against restaurants in strip malls. There is just something about those cookie-cutter neon signs that make me skeptical about the uniqueness and quality of the food. Still, every once in a while one of these inconspicuous eateries ends up being a nice surprise. Tucked away in the Harris Teeter / Whole Foods plaza off Houston Northcutt Boulevard, Mount Pleasant’s Coco’s Cafe represents one of the best such finds in the area.

Further belied by the establishment’s nondescript exterior is the romantic atmosphere which lies inside. The interior is comfortable and low lit. French accents adorn the walls and tables, including one three-foot replica of the Eiffel Tower. Our server (who was authentically French herself) was knowledgeable and polite; she had an answer for any question I had, without more than a moment’s thought.

Coco’s menu features traditional French dishes at prices that seem very reasonable if you’ve spent much time dining downtown. In my opinion, the 10-minute drive out to Mount Pleasant seems well worth the $4-5 you will save on each entree.

Though I was tempted to start my meal with the Moules Avec de la Biere Francaise ($8 - steamed mussels in andouille and Jenlain beer), it was impossible for me to resist the call of Langoustine Risotto de Crevette ($12 - shrimp and lobster risotto).

Coco’s risotto was expertly prepared. With textbook texture and the wonderful flavors of shrimp and lobster permeating through the rice, I can easily say that this was one of the best risottos I have come across.

My partner chose the Ris de Veau ($12 - chili-orange glazed veal sweetbreads), a dish that reminded me quite a bit of the General Tso’s style sweetbreads at McCrady’s. The sweet and subtle heat of the sauce excellently complimented the natural spice of the sweetbreads.

For my entree, I opted for the Bouillabaise ($20). Chock full of mussels, scallops, shrimp, and fish in a light saffron and tomato broth, a few bites will fulfill even the strongest seafood cravings. While I really enjoyed all the seafood, I do wish there would have been a bit more flavor in the broth. This may just be a matter of preference, but I prefer versions of bouillabaise that feature a somewhat stronger tomato flavor (like that at Hank’s Seafood down by the Market).

On my next visit to Coco’s (and I do plan to go back) I don’t think I’ll have any choice but to order the entree my partner chose, the jealousy inducing Navarin d’Agneau ($18 - lamb shank navarin). The unbelievably tender meat is accompanied by green beans, shallots, and mashed potatoes and served in a delicious tomato, herb, and white wine sauce. The dish was truly an event for the senses; not only did it look and taste amazing, but the aroma was more than enough to make every mouth water within a five-foot radius.

The profiteroles (cream puffs filled with sweet cream ice cream and topped with chocolate sauce) were a nice, but perhaps unecessary way to end the evening (I’m a restaurant critic, I’ve got to try a little of everything, right?). Coco’s other dessert options that evening were chocolate mousse, caramel cream, and a chocolate terrine. Though I didn’t sample any of those, I think it’s a safe assumption that you can’t go wrong.

All-in-all, while Coco’s has flown under my radar for quite a while, it has now firmly established itself as one of my go-to recommendations in Mount Pleasant. If you’re looking for a less crowded option for a romantic meal for two, head on over the bridge and seek out this diamond in the rough.

The Fat Hen - Johns Island Restaurant Review

David Heiser — Mon, 07 Jul 2008 07:58:00 +0000

If you were thinking about opening a restaurant, there are few places that would be more attractive options than the downtown peninsula of our fair city. Charleston is a major tourist destination with a reputation for great food. People come to the Lowcountry looking forward to opening their wallets for a fantastic meal. So, what could compel Fred Neuville, one of the city’s best chefs, to pick a location for his new restaurant that is not only off the peninsula, but essentially in the middle of nowhere? On the Fat Hen’s website, Neuville, formerly the executive chef of Coast and 39 Rue de Jean, asserts that he was “striving to create a neighborhood restaurant with a relaxed atmosphere” in what he claims is a “fast-growing area”. While Johns Island is still a long way away from becoming a thriving metropolis, that doesn’t appear to be having any negative effects on the Fat Hen’s business.

After making the trek down Maybank Highway into the wooded depths of Johns Island and arriving at the Fat Hen, the first thing that struck me was a sense of disbelief at how packed the parking lot was. I was particularly taken aback because my friend and I arrived at nearly 9 p.m. on a Thursday evening, hardly primetime for the restaurant business. We were even more surprised when the hostess informed us that our party of two should expect a nearly hour long wait.

When we were eventually seated in a corner of the Fat Hen’s modern country-style dining room, we eagerly poured over the menu. Chef Neuville merges traditional French dishes with local, Lowcountry ingredients and ideas. Looking to be adventurous, my partner and I decided to order the pâté maison, a first for both of us. The pâté ($7.50) was a tangy, delicately sweet paste of chicken livers and spices and was served with crostinis and an assortment of sauces. It’s a unique taste that might not be for everyone, but I really enjoyed it and definitely recommend trying it at least once. For our second appetizer, we chose one of my all-time favorites, the fried green tomato and crab napoleon ($9.95). I’ve ordered this dish at a number of restaurants, so the Fat Hen’s rendition had some lofty expectations to live up to, which it not only matched, but wholly surpassed. The fried green tomatoes had a light, but crisp batter and were topped with a small mound of perfectly fresh lump crab meat. All of this was served over a roasted red pepper coulis which provided a nice accent without overpowering the main elements.

Entrée choices ranged from meat loaf made from in-house ground beef and pork ($12.95) to salmon béarnaise ($18.95). I originally had my heart set on the seared grouper ($18.95), but was forced to change my selection to the grilled tuna ($20.95) when our server informed us that they were sold out. This inconvenience ended up being a gift, however, because my tuna was excellent. It was seared textbook rare, topped with a sweet tomato jam, and served over a delicious, creamy avocado butter. On the side, it was accompanied by an almond rice pilaf and creamy garlic spinach, both of which I thoroughly enjoyed. My partner raved about her flounder Niçoise ($17.95), which was topped with olives, capers, and tomatoes, and served with bacon cheese grits.

In whole, our meal was overwhelmingly a success. The dining room was a bit too loud and crowded, and the appetizer portions seemed too small to justify their prices, but the food was all wonderful and our server was pleasant and attentive. You should expect to spend between $25-35 a person and be thoroughly happy with your purchase. So, next time you’re looking to escape the hoards of tourists downtown but still want a top notch meal, don’t be afraid to journey out to the only reason worth visiting Johns Island.

Le Club Fez - Restaurant Review

David Heiser — Tue, 01 Apr 2008 05:36:00 +0000

I’ve wanted to check out Le Club Fez for quite a while now. I’ve been in a drought as far as new restaurants are concerned and I’ve never had Moroccan food before. When the opportunity arose to take a friend out to a new place for her birthday dinner, Fez’s name quickly rose to the top of our list of possible options. As a side note, the runner up was The Fat Hen on Johns Island, so I expect to get out there fairly soon.

I’m not sure how I had never noticed Fez’s location before, because I love indie movies, but Fez is located right next to the Terrace Theatre on the Maybank Hwy. on James Island. Strip mall restaurants always seem a bit risky, but Fez is one case where you really need to do your best not to judge the book by its cover. Inside Fez, the atmosphere is great. It’s low lit and intimate. The space is fairly small, but we never felt cramped. This is a perfect place to take a date. I’d recommend making a reservation, though, because the limited amount of seating can make getting a table tricky. As far as pedigree is concerned, the owner of Fez is also behind Taco Boy on Folly, as well as Raval and Monza on King St. John Marshall, the chef from everybody’s favorite Italian restaurant Al Di La was also brought in as a consultant for Fez.

Upon the recommendations of a couple other reviews I’ve read, we decided to start with the Gaufrettes with Aioli. This is basically a fancy way of saying “really awesome potato chips with the world’s best dip.” The chips are house made and look like incredibly thin waffle fries. The chips by themselves were great with a garlicky flavor. They are pretty brittle, but if they break don’t fret. That just gives you more bites to enjoy them. The aioli seems like the fine dining world’s interpretation of French onion dip. Don’t get me wrong though, it is way better than anything you could find at the Harris Teeter. After debating for a while we decided to ask our server (who was excellent) exactly which herbs/spices were used. The dip’s main notes are garlic and lemon, but it also has bits of parsley, cilantro, and tarragon. Regardless of what was in it, it was delicious. I literally was trying to scoop up any remnants that were left with my fork when our server came to take it away. At $5.50, I would highly recommend you start your meal with these, but some of the other options like the Kefta (grilled skewers of spiced veal) and B’stilla (savory pastry with chicken and almonds) also sounded great. If I wasn’t a cheap college student, I would have tried another appetizer.

As for entrees, the menu is split into French and Moroccan sections. The choices are fairly limited, but this seems like the type of place where everything is executed really well, so you should be able to pick anything and be pleased. I chose to go for the Moroccan side and ordered a “tagine” which is a slow cooked stew over cous cous. I chose to get the tagine d’Agneau (lamb), which came with figs, apricots, almonds, and shallots. The tagine is served in a dish like the one seen on the right. When they remove the lid and that first smell hits your nostrils, you will know you’ve made the right choice. It is accompanied by three small Moroccan salads of marinated carrots, cucumber, and eggplant. On the advice of my server I went right ahead and mixed these in with the rest of my plate. The tagine itself was delicious. It was savory and perfectly seasoned. The lamb was tender to the point that it fell apart on my fork. I wish I could tell you exactly what seasonings were used in this, but my palate isn’t quite that developed. Just take my word that it’s awesome. I really enjoyed the almonds in the dish as well. They provided a nice crunch that contrasted the rest of the dish’s texture. The apricots were also a pleasant surprise. I wasn’t sure what I would think of a sweet fruit in a dish like this, but it really worked well with the lamb. The tagine ran me $21 but was well worth the price. Another option on the Moroccan side, which I plan to order next time I’m there, is the tagine de bouef, which is a tagine of beef short ribs braised in red wine with tomatoes, raisins, and cinnamon.

My friend got the Cassoulet from the French side, which the menu describes as a “slow cooked casserole of white beans, duck confit, garlic sausage, and pork shoulder.” Again the meat here was absurdly tender. The duck was great and the sausage had the perfect amount of kick without being too spicy. The white beans also picked up a lot of flavor from the sauce and sort of served as microcosms of the dish as a whole. The Cassoulet ran $18 and she had plenty of leftovers, so this would also be a solid pick.

When it came to service, Fez, again, did a very good job. Our server was attentive, informative, and seemed genuinely interested in making sure we had a good meal. Our food was brought out in a timely manner and they checked on us just enough to make sure we were taken care of without doing it too much and making us feel rushed.

All-in-all, I would recommend Fez to anyone, not just the adventurous among you. Charleston doesn’t have a ton of diversity when it comes to ethnic food, so, when we get a place like Fez that serves a type of cuisine that has never been available here, I think it is important to take advantage of it. I said it before, but it’s a great place to take a date. Expect to drop $25 a person and be totally satisfied with your purchase.