There are lots of locations in downtown Charleston that will draw plenty of tourists off the street as they saunter by, window shopping for overpriced clothes and stereotypical paintings of marshes. One address that doesn’t fit that description, despite its location just a block or so from Marion Square, is 39 John Street #D.
Coast, a member of the Holy City Hospitality Group which also runs 39 Rue de Jean and Virginia’s on King, isn’t terribly difficult to find (it’s just down a small alley between John Street and Hutson Street off King Street), but you certainly aren’t going to run into it unless you’re out there looking for it.
Occupying a former warehouse, the interior of Coast features 40-foot ceilings and beautiful exposed brick walls. Though the space isn’t terribly romantic, it does provide a nice balance between low lit ambiance and a trendy, modern feel.
On the night we dined, our very friendly and knowledgeable server let us know that Coast was premiering its new menu, featuring several intriguing additions. While this threw a wrench in my pre-trip ordering plans, I was more than happy to take a bit of extra time to explore my new options. The new items all fall in line with the previous price points, with starters ranging from $7 to $13 (with most settling in right around $10) and entrees starting in the upper teens and capping out in the mid-twenties. A couple of the new items I didn’t get a chance to try, but will look to next time around include Crab & Avocado Ravioli ($9) and Togarishi Yellowfin Tuna with tropical salsa and cilantro vinaigrette ($13).
To start, we opted for Cornmeal Encrusted Oysters ($10) and Cioppino ($8).
Crisp to the bite but incredibly tender inside, these oysters represented some of the better fried seafood I’ve ever ingested. They were topped with caviar, served over a papaya coulis, and finished with a scoop of deliciously fresh tropical salsa.
The Cioppino is a hearty tomato based soup brimming with crab meat, shrimp, squid, and mussels. All of the soup’s seafood elements were cooked perfectly and the aroma of the creamy tomato broth was wonderful. I was also impressed by the portion size, which was plenty for two people (a rarity in this economy where I’ve discovered most restaurants are serving about half as much for the same price).
For my entree, I went with one of the new additions to the menu, the Crab Encrusted Tilapia ($19). What impressed me most about this dish was how Chef David Pell and his staff were able to keep the subtle taste of the tilapia from being completely overwhelmed by the bolder flavors of the crab meat and parmesan cream in the topping. Another nice component was the sweet tomato relish which cut through the richness and served as an excellent contrast to the plate’s savory elements.
My date chose another of Coast’s newcomers, the Caprese Escolar ($21). I was excited to try this dish because I’ve never seen mozzarella and tomatoes served alongside fish in this way. Where this dish really shined was in the first few minutes when the fish was still hot and melted the creamy, fresh cheese in your mouth. I also really enjoyed the smokey oak flavor of the grill that permeated the tomatoes and the buttery white fish. I’d be remiss if I forgot to mention the unbelievably tasty basil pesto mashed potatoes, which I couldn’t stop myself from stealing bites of at every opportunity.
Unfortunately, my girlfriend wasn’t really able to enjoy it because the fish made her mouth itchy and uncomfortable. I think she may have discovered a new food allergy (she’s leaning toward the fish, but I’m thinking it may have something to do with the wood used in Coast’s grill).
Overall, now that I have made my first trip back to Coast since I mooched off of my roommates during Parent’s Weekend of our freshman year, I fully plan on making a concerted effort to get there more often.
Apart from my girlfriend’s itchy encounter with the escolar, I really can’t find any flaws in Coast’s execution. The service was polite and efficient, our portions were generous, the food quality was excellent, and the prices are pretty reasonable for the location. If you have friends or family coming into town, Coast should be right near the top of your list when they invariably ask you to take them out for seafood.
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