In a world where up to 30 percent of restaurants fail in their first year of operation, it’s a risky proposition to get attached to any new eatery. When I had the opportunity to dine at Le Club Fez, Charleston’s first Moroccan/French restaurant, last spring, I instantly felt like I had found a new personal favorite. The atmosphere and the food were equally great. It felt like the perfect complement to my beloved Terrace Theater right next door.

Then, a few short months later it was gone. After remaining vacant for a brief period, the space previously occupied by Fez was filled by Zia Taqueria, an Americanized version of a traditional Mexican taco joint.

While much of Fez’s decor remains in tact, the new guys have given the restaurant a distinctly different feel. Where Fez was low-lit and romantic, Zia Taqueria is comparatively bright and lively. Orders are taken at the counter and then delivered to your table. Service was moderately fast (a plus since we were on a tight schedule to make our 7:40 movie), but I was a little annoyed that they didn’t bring our food out at the same time. We split our bill, but made it very apparent were sitting at the same table. Apparently this was a difficult concept to grasp, because my plate arrived about 10 minutes before my partner’s.

Zia’s menu features some standard Mexican-American fare, but they thankfully carry some more authentic items. Their tacos ($3.25 - $3.75), for instance, are served in the same way you’d find them at a North Charleston taco truck–two corn tortillas, meat, and an onion-cilantro relish.

To start, we went with Zia’s take on Chile con Queso ($5) flavored with the unique taste of white wine. It didn’t really strike me as a very Mexican flavor, but perhaps that was their intent. Opinions on the results were split. While I enjoyed it, my partner didn’t think much of the dish. On the positive side, we both liked the free salsa that is served with the chips at every table. It had a nice fresh taste, with just the right amount of heat.

For my entree, I went with a sampling of three different tacos. I was most excited to try their taco al pastor (seared, marinated pork with minced pineapple and an achiote-guajillo glaze). Unfortunately, I (like City Paper’s Jeff Allen did back in November) found the meat to be exceptionally dry and bland. I also didn’t taste a hint of pineapple. Zia’s taco with carnitas (shredded pork) was better, but not by much. I’m not sure whether their meat is just consistently overcooked, or if it had just been sitting out for a while, but this is definitely a problem they need to address. The barbacoa (slow cooked shredded beef), on the other hand, was a bright spot. The meat was tender, juicy, and full of flavor. While one out of three is a good batting average, it wasn’t enough to make me happy with my purchase.

My partner opted for the torta with carne asada ($10). A torta, for those who have never seen one, is a Mexican sandwich served on telera bread and filled with meat, black beans, onions, lettuce, tomato, avocado, and, in this case, served with a cilantro-jalapeno spread. Though the filling was tasty, we found there to be too much bread, overwhelming everything inside. I did, however, like the spread which had a nice tangy spice, without providing too much heat.

Though we didn’t order any ourselves, Zia offers the standard collection of margaritas along with some more unique offerings including bottled Mexican Coca-Cola (which is sweetened with real cane sugar instead of high-fructose corn syrup) and Jarritos, another Mexican soda.

In the end, I don’t see myself returning to Zia Taqueria anytime soon. Even though its proximity to my favorite movie theater is tempting, I’d rather spend my money at El Bohio across the street. If you’re looking for high-quality traditional Mexican food, take the brief jaunt up I-26 to Ashley Phosphate and stop at any of the hole-in-the-wall authentic places you come across (I highly recommend La Nortena). The food will cost less and taste better, just be ready to point at the menu if your server no habla inglés.

Related posts:

1. La Norteña - North Charleston Restaurant Review